Roca Mar Surfing Star

July 9th 2008

These waves are very nasty. I literally "ate shit" 5 times before I actually made it to the bottom of the breaks. I lie, I turned around after fighting for half an hour to get to where I should have been. I caught a few little waves back to shore for fun but that was that. My confidence is pretty low after being tossed like a rag doll for longer than I could hold my breath and getting stuck between the shore and the snapping wave crests (I just kept getting pulled back in). Mother nature just kicked my ass.

The rest of the day was quite tranquil. Reading from my hammock, front row views of surfers, a barefoot beach jog, more reading, a walk to some tide pools, and more reading.

The highlight of the day was the surfer who brought his board back in 3 pieces. I was watching this guy rip it up out there and was surprised to see his board busted up. Goes to show what can happen if you make a wrong move. I think I will head up north in a couple days to get some tamer waves; if pro's are going down, I don't really stand a chance face-to-face with the 5 foot behemoth waves (For me it will be say face-to-sand).