Buenos Aires Argentina

May 2nd - May 5th

Saturday - Arrival at last

After 40 hours of bus transport, I had a lot of energy to expel and did so with a group of Argentinian soccer comrades.

I located my hostel in the morning, unloaded my laundry at the Lavanderia, ans started walking the steets. As it was Saturday, I knew that the local parks would be full of people. I was in pursuit of a decent pair of multi-surface soccer shoes so I used that as an excuse to discover different parts of the city. Every little plaza (mini-park between blocks) was lined with arts, crafts, and most notably the Yerba's (cups), Bastillo's (straws), and Mate (tea) all the locals seemed to be drinking.

I stopped off at a Parilla to grab a quick empanadada to tie me over until after the soccer match I was determined to find. With a new pair of boots in hand, I wandered the park for an hour with nothing but a large does of families, a legalize marijuana gathering, a few dogs, and finally 2 guys in soccer kit! I kindly asked them where I ould find a math and they invited me to their Saturday soccer match.

With a wide range in age (25 - 60) there were 2 complete teams an we played for 2 hours. The score was tied at 2 for most of the match until my team finally broke through from a set-piece. We scored another one sortly after then the game was called off.

I think I could have made every player into a stereotypical "spanish" person in this game (just imagine a psyhotic Spanish version of the Soprano's Uncle Pussy in the enemies goal and a Chilean version of Italy's Fracesco Totti as their target man and just fill in the rest of the blanks yourself (oh, I shouldn't forget the fat cheating cheap guy, or the defender who would 2-foot tackle everytime but miss the ball!).

I got dropped off at home, pointed towards the best Parilla place in town (Parilla = Grill and they serve "Complete Grills" which is basically huge portions of meat including intestines, liver, and blood sausage). Yeah, i tried a piece of the intestine!?

To cap the night off, I went to a Tango Show and listened to some fantastic singing that broke up the very sexy and seductive dancing by 4 sets of couples.

Supercup Sunday - Boca Juniors Versus rival Riverplate at Boca's home stadium

The day started with the news that tickets were unavailable at the hostel. Then, my previous days anal nagging about getting a ticket into my hand (after i paid my money) coupled with the fact i was solo, saw me secretly get handed the only ticket the booking agent could find. I had to avoid 10 other pissed off fans.

On the way to the match, I walked through Calle Defensa which is blocked off for the Sunday acts, booths, crafts, food, music, artists, you name the cultural entity, it was there!

Thinking about what a great city Buenos Aires is, I stopped off to take some photos of me holding "the golden ticket" (almost in a bragging kind of way).

As I approached the match, I could see what all the hype was about. I stopped off and bought a Boca Jersey right before I got into the insane line-up.

After 30 minutes of waiting, I finally got into the "Popular" section (also known as the Hooligan section). I don'y even think I can eplain the passion these people have for this team. Good thing I can get psyched about soccer games and pick up their tunes very quickly (of course without saying any of the words correctly).

In the jam packed tunnel to the seats, guys were pissing on the walls and pools of urine were at foot. The only people allowed through were those with kids but every body else was expected to stay in the hall singing songs while huge poles with Boca flags and colored umbrellas were violently passed down the line by the bushell to the supporters.

The idea was everbody charge in wave after wave hoisting flags and chanting the songs. Somehow i was right in there with a flag but got slapped on the head for not singing the "right" way (i think as if to "wake up and get into it"!?).

Once i finally got inside, I stood in the middle for a few minutes but moved towards the side. I was still in the middle of it all and finally got to be underneath one of the HUGE flags you always see at big soccer games (twice!).

For the first half I was taking videos, snapping pictures, just like everyone around me. I moved up to the top section for a different view of the second half. The whole place was packed like sardines except for the top platform (with no view). I managed to manouver around and get a view but felt like I was being watched.

I was, and I ended up getting mugged for my camera by a group of young street kids. One jumped me on my back, grabbed the camera, passed it like a baton to the next guy (who i caught!), but he had already passed it to the next guy (like a baton), all in the middle of people. When I looked up while holding this little grommet, I noticed 4 big guys looking at me as if they were the ones who got these kids to steal my camera. Releasing my clasp, I was fired up with adrenaline and ready to kill something, but not with these big guys around.

I stormed off into the crowd allowing my adrenaline to somewhat dissipate. On my way home I was so mad i could hardly enjoy the celebrations for the victorious Boca Juniors. I stopped off at the most famous Steak Restaurant in Buenos Aires and talked to the waiters about the violence in the city (he was robbed in his house 3 times at gun point).

Talking to other travellers, it seemed to be hit and miss with the lucky going unscathed and the unlucky people getting mugged. Some even at gun or knife point.

This violence thing seems to be normal in Buenos Aires, and especially expected at the football derby in Boca (the rough part of town).

I took a risk of bringing my camera and paid the price.

Time to try a new city, off to Uruguay I go!

(P.s. Bear with me for the next 10 days, I am back to a film camera until Les brings me my replacement camera on the 15th of May).